Waiting patiently under a bright blue sky rippling with floating puffy white clouds our perserverance finally paid off.  Squinting into the bright sun we could barely hear the faint clamor of clanging bells in the distance.  As the first herd of cows were sighted high above our heads, they carefully wound their way out of the woods and down the winding open alpine field path shuffling towards us.  The muffled metallic raucous now changed to a deafening clanging roar. 

Descending from Alp Dürrenwald Pastures

Although we are in Switzerland in the French sections it is known as  “Désalp” and yet cross over to the German section it will be called an “Alpabzug”.  Whatever name given, it is the best known of all traditional mountain festivals that has taken place annually throughout Switzerland for centuries.

Today,  approximately 340 cows followed their farming families down the mountain paths from Dürrenwald alpine pastures towards the village of  St. Stephan.  Separated into 3 different groups within spaced intervals ensured all were able to fully view and appreciate both the cows’ and farmers’ festive decorations as each herd and farm family paraded by.

Having attended several of these cow descent festivals over the years, I knew that in order to take memorable photos of the cows you also need beautiful background scenery.  You must arrive early, ask which path they will be coming down and then climb and keep climbing until you are far away from crowds, stores and other not very interesting backdrops.  I try not think about that one year of having perfectly clear sharp shots of cows proudly wearing garlands of fresh flowers and huge ornate brass bells, along with angelic children and their grandparents (think Heidi) all dressed in traditional costumes.  Unfortunately my photo backgrounds consisted of hundreds of gawking spectators crammed together in front of the “no-way-you-could-angle-or-crop-out” COOP grocery store, pharmacy and many other boring modern buildings…. So remember: always head for the hills!

Although one of the smaller bells – it’s clanging is quite large!

The homecoming celebration is for the cows who have spent over four months grazing in the alpine pastures.   From mid September to mid October throughout Switzerland, it is now time for the cows to return to the safe valleys down below before the snow finally sets in.

The head pieces are beautiful flowers set in small evergreen branches.

This annual festive event is celebrated with cows wearing a crown of brightly colored fresh or paper flowers and thundering bells hanging from their necks as they parade down the mountainside with their owners.  The farmers and children are also adorned in their local alpine costumes.

I believe she is both a farmer and a florist!!

The flower bouquets on the heads of these cows were stunning! Between the tall head piece and heavy bells, this walk must be quite the challenge for these cows!

Colorful paper flowers decorate the pine branches.

Lots of young family farm members.

Markets & Music

Once the cows arrived down in the valley – there was more to experience!  Yodelling groups of lovely ladies, demonstration of cheese making and market stands were dotted across an open field.

There was a variety of homemade honey, pastries, breads and ice cream.  Other stands offered hand carved wooden bowls, hearts and other items for the home-all reasonably priced!  After a bratwurst and beer we were now fortified to have a wander around to buy a few locally made items.

The perfect setting for a little shopping of locally made products.

Serenaded by yodelling while we wandered around.

Lessons Learned

• Factor in time to walk up the mountain path – it is well worth the extra wait.  Your photos will be beautiful.
• With the extra available time, take a few practice photos to place yourself in a spot where you are not directly facing the sun when photographing the cows and their families. You want to have the sun either behind you or off to the side.
• Remember to also think about positioning yourself with the alps or a chalet or two in the background.  By doing this before the cows arrive you will be able to focus on the cows and their beautiful head crowns of flowers and bells.  They quickly pass you so there is not much time to change positions as they trot down the path.   And as one friend exclaimed “I prefer not to get trampled by a cow!”

Travel Tidbits

• My Switzerland  this site offers numerous suggestions on places and activities within Switzerland.  Have a look for “Alpine Festivals” or “Autumn Events” as there are many cow descent parade activities happening throughout Switzerland during the months of September and October.